Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Rifle Paper Boylston Bra

Rifle Paper Bra

Does anyone else "assign" yourself a project, and then over the next several weeks repeatedly think about how you haven't done said project yet, and stress out about it hanging over your head, even though you're the only one that knows about the project and no one will care if you never make it? No? Just me?

After making a dress out of this BEAUTIFUL rayon, I decided that I needed to make a bra from the scraps. They sat in a pile for a few months, guilt-tripping me with their presence, taunting me with their silky smooth delightfulness. Then I had a sewing weekend with some lovely ladies, and I conquered that pile of scraps.

I made a Boylston Bra, pattern by Orange Lingerie.

Rifle Paper Bra

First let me talk about the fabric. This is about-to-be-released fabric from Cotton+Steel [my employer], designed by Anna Bond of Rifle Paper Company. This is her first fabric collection and it is so divine!

Rifle Paper Bra

The rayon forms the outer cups, frame, bridge and straps. I love the wider fabric straps, especially how they don't look very bra-strap-ish when they poke out from under something.

[Side note: remember how bra strap headbands were a thing??]

All of the findings/notions/other fabrics were from a red bra kit from, terribly, I can't remember. I think it might have been from Arte Crafts? The foam is from somewhere else that I also can't remember. It was literally the first thing I bought when I was interested in making bras [for some reason]. Aren't I the most helpful sewing blogger??

I love the picot elastic that was in the red kit!

Rifle Paper Bra

I attached the closure on the back with a medium satin stitch. I remember noticing this on a RTW bra and tried to mimic the same look.

Rifle Paper Bra

Here is the inside.

Rifle Paper Bra

I lined the frame and bridge with the red duoplex that was in the kit. I wanted a really clean finish on the inside and also was worried that a single layer of rayon would be too delicate. I was a teeny bit concerned it would end up too thick but it's totally fine.

Rifle Paper Bra

The lining made it easy to get a completely sealed-in seam on the sides. I just sewed together the lining and shell bridges/frames, then pinned them right sides together along the sides with the powermesh band sandwiched in between. I sewed, turned right side out, topstitched, and then basted the raw edges of the the frames together.

This is my first time making a Boylston Bra, and the first time doing a foam bra. The pattern doesn't include any info about making a foam lining, but luckily there's an awesome tutorial series about it on Cloth Habit, so I used that for reference. I did it about 95% right - the foam is a little too bulky right where the strap connects, which I think is because I didn't trim it down far enough.

Rifle Paper Bra

I used a 3 step zig zag to seam the foam cup pieces together, then used bias cut strips of the rayon to cover the seams, which I love.

As for size: I have already made several [yet un-blogged] Marlborough Bras, also by Orange Lingerie. When initially making the Marlborough I went through a little fitting process and ended up making a 34C and removing 1" total from the back band. This was actually a larger size than I should have made based on my measurements, but it worked out. So I went ahead and cut that size in the Boylston, figuring the fit would be fairly similar.

It fits pretty well, a little bit on the restrictive side but totally wearable. In an effort to use up the extra strap elastic, I used it for the bottom band, only realizing after that it's way less stretchy than the band elastic. So that's part of it. I also probably shouldn't have preemptively shortened the back band. I think that next time I will make a 34D and use the proper elastic, and that might be a little bit more comfortable.

Here it is on my headless lady friend.

Rifle Paper Bra

This bra is really awesome on. It looks super fancy and, not gonna lie, makes the girls look pretty great.

Rifle Paper Bra

Overall I LOVE the Boylston Bra pattern. I can't wait to make more and continue tweaking. I'm also definitely going to make it into a bathing suit at some point. See how many projects I'm assigning myself? Up over my head they go.

Rifle Paper Bra


22 comments:

  1. What a beautiful bra! It seems too pretty to cover up. I particularly like the clean finish on the inside - it looks like it would be more comfortable than raw edges/seams. Do you have to change the construction order to achieve clean finish?

    My mental to-make list is not only as long as my arm, but it's now a season behind. I can't seem to keep up with my own plans, ever. Maybe I should just embrace out of season sewing? Eventually my closet will sync up with the weather, right?

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    Replies
    1. haha eventually our sewing queues will be so long that we'll be sewing in season again, right?? It's like we will lap ourselves in reverse.

      The only construction I changed was the part about sandwiching the band in between the shell and lining, mentioned in the post. After that I basted the edges together and treated it as one layer.

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    2. Derp. That's what I get for surreptitiously reading and commenting during work--I get interrupted and then forget what I've *just read.* >.< Thanks for being a good sport, and for providing detailed notes. When I've finally worked through some of the stash I've accumulated and bras inevitably float to the top of my to-sew list, I'll definitely be back here for reference.

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  2. Very pretty! Have never made a bra but this is definitely good encouragement to make one.

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    1. You should give it a shot! It's surprisingly not as hard as you'd think! :]

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  3. This fabric/pattern combo is such a winner! And yes, of course you are not the only one who "assigns" herself projects and then feels guilty when they don't get done. No need for guilt here, though, the result is so great.

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    Replies
    1. haha glad to know I'm not the only one...thank you!!

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  4. Would you be able to do a nursing bra version of this pattern? I love the thicker straps of this design! Looks very supportive.

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    1. Unfortunately I'm not sure because I'm not really sure how a nursing bra is constructed...but I bet it could be figured out!

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  5. Such a superb Boylston you've made --- of all I've seen, it's far & away my favorite! I really love making up this pattern, though unfortunately for me, I'm too far outside the current cup size range to use it for myself. However, it fits my niece extremely well, and I love sewing it up out of fabulous fabric scraps. Now you've got me thinking that it's time to peruse the scrap bin and stitch up another one right away :D!

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  6. Oh my goodness this is pure beautiful perfection....can't stop looking at it!

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  7. I'm trying really hard not to assign myself tasks and things to sew. It's difficult though. Your bra looks very comfortable :)

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  8. That fabric was made for your bra. Its so beautiful! Definitely RTW quality.

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  9. GET IN MY CLOSET!! It's beautiful!! I haven't taken the dive into bra-making yet, but this one is definitely an inspiration. I can't take my eyes off of it!

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  10. Absolutely LOVE this!! Maybe one day I'll be brave enough to try a bra sewing. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  11. This is amazing! I just made my first Boylston, and after seeing yours, I'm feeling particularly inspired to make some really cute ones! :)

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  12. This is lovely! Can you tell me if you cut all or any of the pieces on the bias? I have some silk scraps I want to use for a Boylston but can't find any details anywhere of people making this with a woven fabric!

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