Thursday, October 2, 2014

Travel Sewing Plans!

One of the best parts about an upcoming vacation is that you have an excuse to MAKE NEW THINGS! Do I already have clothes that would be sufficient? Of course! Would I rather give myself a barrage of self-imposed sewing deadlines that are unrealistic but thrilling to imagine? YES!

For my whole trip to Berlin, my wardrobe theme [because all vacation wardrobes should have themes] is utilitarian. I want to pack light and streamline everything and feel very mobile. I'm going to be doing a lot by myself during the day while my brother is at work and I will just want easy clothes.

The first and largest project I'm hoping to accomplish is a coat. I have never made a real coat, with interlining and actual warmth-preserving properties, and I've actually not even bought one in the last five or six years. But now I live in a place with an almost-actual winter, and will be traveling to a place that has a real winter. So I need a coat.

I'm pretty sure I've chosen the Colette [Walden] Albion jacket. It's partially because I already own that pattern, and that would be responsible of me. AND I have [I think] enough leftover navy moleskin from the KwikSew bomber jacket to make it, which would be even more responsible. IT'S LIKE AN almost FREE COAT.

Travel Sewing

I wasn't sure if it was exactly the pattern I was looking for until I saw this version on Evolution of a Sewing Goddess. She did a lot of shaping and added seams and made it more feminine. I really love it. I don't know if I'll have time to do all the work she did, but if I even go a little in that direction I'll be happy.

I'm planning on interlining with Thinsulate, as I don't expect the cotton moleskin to be very warm or wind-stopping. Does anyone have any experience with using thinsulate? I'm trying to decide if I should use it in the arms or not.

Next, I have this acid wash knit that's burning a hole in my stash so I really want to make some jeggings, but I'm scared. What pattern should I use? Will the Berliners make fun of me? I feel like if I do them right they will just look like pants, not leggings-as-pants. The fabric is pretty thick and stable so it could work. I was thinking of using just a basic leggings pattern and adding some double topstitching along the side seam / inseam. I also have the Papercut Ooh La Leggings pattern, which might be better. But I don't know, WILL I LOOK RIDICULOUS?

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Also in the pants department, I'd really like to make a part of cigarette pants. I have already made a muslin of the Colette Clover pants, but sadly it's been lost to time and space, and I can't find it anywhere. I'm hoping that I accidentally left it in my old house in LA, and someday someone will find these weird see-through pants with sharpie marks all over them. I have some grey stretch twill that would be really cute, as long as I can get the fit right.

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And speaking of, well, Clovers, I'd like to make another Papercut Clover shirt out of this navy polka dot sheer business.

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I'd like to make up a Plantain or two as good staples, maybe long sleeved. I have some black jersey and the Arizona Tomahawk jersey for those.

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I also think that I need a daytime bag. I'm eyeing the Cooper bag because it can be a backpack and a messenger bag, which fits with my theme of utilitarian, a very important criterion. The only thing is that I don't have the pattern OR fabric for this one yet, so I'd have to buy them. We shall see.

And lastly, I want to use this motorcycle jersey to make a Thread Theory Strathcona henley for my brother as a thank you for putting me up. He has a motorcycle, and half of his instagram pictures are of motorcycles, so it seems only fitting. And I'm not ruining the surprise because I don't think he reads my blog...do you, Ian? Do you? This is a test.

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So there are my six[ish] sewing goals. As of today I have three weeks. Will I accomplish all? some? any? Who knows! But I'm gonna try!

Monday, September 29, 2014

V is for...Clover

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

So this is actually the wearable muslin that I made before I made the Papercut Clover dress that I blogged the other day [a dress that I really, really like]. It's all finished, and it fits great, but to be honest I'm not so sure about it.

I think this is an instance where I liked the fabric but I chose the wrong application, and it just isn't quite right. I don't know. I like the pattern, and I like the fabric, but I don't like combo of the two. The yellow and the floral together with the black 'v'...it's just not speaking to me. All I see is that giant 'v.'

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

V for victory! Velocity! Viscosity! Visigoths!

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Ok so pattern notes...not much to say here. I am 33-27-38 and I made a straight XS. On this one I shortened the sleeves by 1.25", which was about as much as I could before the curve of the underarm got too severe. I like the scale better on my arms. With the sleeves as is, I felt like they were too long for me and made me look a little droopy/slouchy.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Both the yellow floral and the black insets are rayon. Even though it's a looser fit, the flowy rayon means that it doesn't look blocky or poofy when I wear it because it's constantly moving around. In fact I think it's a little more flattering in real like than it is in these pictures.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

To finish the neckline, the pattern has you leave a shoulder seam open, do the binding, then close the shoulder seam. So no binding in the round. Which is awesome, except that I totally didn't do it that way! I sewed the whole top together and then looked at the instructions. So I bound it in the round and was super lazy and just folded under the raw edge. And it's fine! Whoops!

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Despite my lack of enthusiasm for this rendition, I still really like this pattern, and I'm planning to do another one out of this navy polka dot poly chiffon I bought the other day. I was thinking of doing some shirring around the sleeves to make them a little poofy - which is a word I've now said twice in one post. I think that means it's time to wrap it up.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Have you ever had any pattern/fabric combo fails?

Friday, September 26, 2014

I'm going to Berlin [and possibly Prague]!

berlin1

My brother has been living and working in Berlin for the last five or so months. It's not every day that your brother lives halfway around the world, so I thought it's high time to visit! I'm going at the end of October and I'm sooo excited!!

berlin2
2011 versions of me and the bro

I was actually there in 2011, but just for a day as part of a larger tour. It felt like we were there for about 2.5 seconds so I've always wanted to go back.

I remember being really into taking pictures of this giant iPad ad behind the sign at one of the old east/west Berlin checkpoints. Poignant.

berlin3

But anyway, does anyone have any fabric shopping recommendations? Because you KNOW I'm bringing an extra suitcase. Does anyone live there? Any other general recommendations? If you have any bits of advice I'd love for you to leave a comment, or if you prefer you could also email me at devon[at]missmake[dot]com.

We are also going to try to go to Prague on one of the weekends I'm there, so any good info there would be much appreciated too!

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

cloverdress11

FALL! FALL! FALL!

That's what everyone is saying. Apparently fall is here in the northern hemisphere, at least according to the earth's position, and also Starbucks.

But it's still kinda hot here. Enter this dress. This dress lets me feel all autumnal on the inside, but keeps me abiding by summer on the outside.

cloverdress06

The pattern is the Papercut Patterns Clover dress, which is my new favorite one-evening-make. It comes together so fast, and with the small pieces and the 'V' shape on the front there are a lot of possibilities with color blocking and fun fabric choice.

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

AND the dress version doesn't have a waist seam so it's the same amount of work as the shirt length.

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The fabric is a light and drapey number that I actually got for free when someone made a giant fabric donation at Sew LA. It's some kind of polyester that's has a little woven plaid on it. I snagged it, forgot about it, then found it when I was trying to figure out what to make this out of. Score!

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I'm definitely planning to do more of the shirt length and play around with some sheer / fancy fabrics. I would have already except that I have nary a shred of sheer or fancy in my stash. How sad, right?

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

This belt buckle, by the way, is from ebay. If you'd like to lose an hour of your time and possibly some money, go search for "vintage brass belt buckle" on ebay, I dare ya.

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

So now it's off to the pumpkin patch, or the cider mill, or the corn maze, or something. Happy fall!

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Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Kwik Sew 3491 Bomber Jacket Repeat

Kwik Sew 3491

We've been here before, haven't we? Kwik Sew...bomber jacket...floral lining. This all seems so familiar.

Oh yes, I already made almost this exact same jacket, KwikSew 3491, blogged here. How strange! Oh, the deja vu!

Kwik Sew 3491 Hooded Bomber Jacket

This time, though, it's a trade show sample for Robert Kaufman, so I don't get to keep it. Also, note the lack of beach and blonde hair [goodbye California.]

Kwik Sew 3491

I have to say, even though I already have almost the exact same jacket, I considered dropping everything and fleeing for the border just so I could keep this one too. [Luckily Hootie talked me out of it.] The style of this jacket is very much me.

[Also just FYI, this post is basically going to be a repeat of the last time I made this exact same thing, because I feel the exact same way. At least I'm consistent?]

Kwik Sew 3491

Firstly, I will gush about the outer fabric. It's Robert Kaufman's Chamonix Moleskin. I really, really love this fabric. It's somewhere between velvet and suede in texture, but it's 100% cotton. So yes, totally machine washable. It's so soft and squishy and texturey, and can you tell I really like it? My last rendition of this pattern was gray, this one is a deep navy.

Kwik Sew 3491

Now let's talk about that lining, shall we? It's Kaufman's London Calling lawn, the same fabric I used as a lining in one of my Chloe dresses, just a different colorway. I love the pop of lining inside the hood, and I especially love the lining on the inside. [I'm definitely using the word 'love' way too many times in this post, sorry guys, but it's true.] The pattern doesn't come with lining pieces, so I made my own. The jacket is faced on the inside all the way around the neckline, so I traced off the exterior pieces, subtracted the facing pieces from the tops, accounted for seam allowances, and voila! Lining pattern.

Kwik Sew 3491

I assembled the lining separately and then attached it to the free edge of the facing all the way around when the jacket was put together but before the hood was attached. The lining bottom, the ends of the sleeves and center of the hood lining are all turned under and hand stitched down.

Kwik Sew 3491

I used the same ribbing that I used on the first jacket. There are few things worse to me than almost-matching colors, and I couldn't find a ribbing that matched the navy exactly, so I went with a contrast.   Where do you buy ribbing? I find it to be difficult to source.

Kwik Sew 3491

The hood drawstring is some just some leather lace from Big Box Store. I think it ties in the brown of the ribbing and adds to the ruggedness of the jacket. And oh how I love a rugged jacket.

Since this was a custom job I timed myself very accurately - I use an app called Hours Tracker - and I was kind of surprised that this only took 7 hours of work time from start to finish, including cutting and hand sewing. Heck yeah! Although the paper pieces were already cut and the lining pieces already drafted, I still felt pretty good about that time. Part of it is that I've recently started using a rotary cutter and weights to cut out patterns, and it is SO. MUCH. FASTER.

Kwik Sew 3491

By contrast, I also made a Moneta dress with the tie collar and sleeves as part of the same job, and it took me 4 hours. 4! Hooray for knits, right?

Do you ever time yourself when you sew?

[P.S. - because I know you're wondering - that t-shirt was a Christmas present from my brother, and it's from an Etsy shop called Personal Baggage. It's a cat face in the shape of Ohio. I repeat, it's a cat face in the shape of Ohio.]

UPDATE: Sadly this KwikSew pattern is out of print now. But here are a few other similar-ish jacket patterns if you'd like to get your mitts on one!

Rigel Bomber by Papercut Patterns
Malu Coat by Schnittchen- make it short and add ribbing!
New Look 6226
Kwik Sew 3764
Burda 7047 [not super similar but does have a hood]

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