Monday, March 21, 2016

McCall's 7116 / Cotton + Steel Fruit Dots Rayon

McCall's 7116

Should I even talk about how long it's been since I've posted?

Nah.

(Except yeah, it's been a really long time. Is anyone still reading this? Do people still read blogs? What should I have for lunch? If you can answer any of these things, comment below.)

M7116 / Cotton + Steel Rayon

This dress is McCall's 7116 made out Cotton + Steel Fruit Dots rayon. It has an overlapped, self-faced, gathered bodice, side zip, and bias-cut skirt. These pictures were taken after wearing it two days in a row. Let it be known that this was only because I was doing a video at work and had to have the same wardrobe, and no, I don't want no scrub. But I love this dress enough to really not have minded that much.

So here are the details:

FABRIC: Cotton + Steel Fruit Dots Rayon (Melody Miller)

McCall's 7116

I've already spent time lauding the glorious qualities of C+S rayon. If you've never sewn rayon before and want to know a good place to start, start here. C+S rayon is a teensy bit heftier and *firmer?*beefier?* than any other rayon I've worked with. It just seems to know where to fold itself, and has such a nice, non-clingy drape. It's assertive fabric. It's decisive fabric. It's fabric that knows what it wants.

The cherries also come in a deep turquoise/mustard colorway, which is equally as lovely. Luckily, the place where I was in-person-shopping only had this colorway. Phew. Dilemma avoided.

I prewashed cold and line dried. My other handmade rayon garments have not stood up well to machine drying, which I know is a rayon no-no, so I'm finally trying to be a grownup about it and actually line drying some things that need it.

PATTERN: McCall's 7116

McCall's 7116

I bought this pattern impulsively after seeing it posted on the McCall's instagram. Suggestion to purchase, obeyed.

As with any Big 4 patterns, I erred mostly on the side of smaller than what it says. My measurements are 33-27-38 and I cut a 10-12-16. The 16 was actually a size up from what I should have cut, but I'm glad I did since I would not have wanted it any smaller.

McCall's 7116

After muslining just the bodice, the front neckline edges had some serious gaping action, so I took a wedge out there by slashing across the bodice to the armscye, overlapping, and redrawing the front edge to straighten it out.

I also thought I might need to take some kind of FBA action (I'm always on the edge of needing one), as the bottom edge of the pattern piece seemed too short just under by bust. I was feeling a little adventurous so I just kind of winged the adjustment, and I think it totally worked! I slashed horizontally though the bust point, then up to it and hinged, and just lowered the two hinges by the amount of length I wanted to add. This also added some extra fullness to the gathers.

Also, the sleeve was too tight. I was about to get all complicated with the slashing and the spreading, when I realized I could just make the pleat smaller and add circumference that way. So much easier! So I added 3/4" to the sleeve, which basically just meant redrawing each pleat line 3/8" in towards the center.

THE SEWING

M7116 / Cotton + Steel Rayon

I squeezed this out of about 1 7/8 yards of 45" fabric, with not an inch of extra to spare. This was an amazing and stressful feat accomplished by intense pattern piece tetris-ing and much uncomfortable kneeling on floor. I had to cut everything in a single layer to get it to fit.

I added interfacing to the self faced edges of the front bodice neckline. I used fusible tricot interfacing and cut it exactly the width of the facing, so that the fabric wants to fold over right where it should.

McCall's 7116

I used to hate doing side zips for some reason, but this one went in really well (it's that fabric I tell ya), and I think it might have converted me! I wish I had a better shot of it. One little trick I always do with invisible zippers is to fuse a 1" strip of tricot interfacing to each side of the seam before putting in the zipper. This reinforces the fabric and makes everything a lot smoother and sturdier. I actually have a roll of 1" wide tricot interfacing from Wawak that is the most amazing shortcut ever, but I just searched their website and they don't seem to have it anymore. Sadness.

After finishing and trying on, I decided the skirt was just a leeeetle too tight across the hips, so I let out the non-zipper side seam as much as I could. I now feel a slight diagonal pull in the skirt when I wear the dress, but I don't think it's visible so I'm just dealing.

M7116 / Cotton + Steel rayon 
me, dealing

Last thing to note is that I omitted the sleeve buttons, which are only decorative anyway, because they just felt like too much with the pleat and the gathers and everything.

I really, REALLY like how this turned out, and I have Anna Maria Horner's Fibs & Fables Helios rayon on standby for the next one. Let's see how long it takes me to blog about THAT.

McCall's 7116

53 comments:

  1. This dress is gorgeous!! You inspire me with all your adjustments. I'm always too scared to do too much (I'm not even certain is know how to), so everything I make is slightly ill-fitting. I'm definitely going to google the other colour way because I love mustard, but this is so lovely! Can't help you with lunch ideas, sorry :)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I used to be kind of intimidated too, but just through trial and error and practice with muslins you get better at knowing what to do. Plus, there's usually a couple of adjustments that will become your standard ones so you'll get good at doing those. And here's the other colorway! http://www.hartsfabric.com/cotton-and-steel-melody-miller-fruit-dots-cherries-rayon-teal-85863.html

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  2. 1) Yep, still here. 2) Definitely still reading blogs. In fact, I just added a bunch to my feed, and I'm up to about 80 total I think. "Blogs are dead" is a lie. 3) Indian food - delicious and comforting.

    In all seriousness, the dress is fab. I have that pattern in my collection and was thinking of sewing it up soon, but in a drapey knit. I like the idea of using a rayon for a cool, floaty dress for warmer weather. The color saturation of your fabric is divine. I'm going to have to see if I can lay my hands on some Cotton + Steel.

    Glad you're back!

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    Replies
    1. YUMMMMM Indian food!! Good idea. And I love the idea of this in a knit! It would be so comfy.

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  3. 1). Hi! 2). Love blogs. 3). Roasted red pepper and goat cheese panini. I love your dress! The pattern and fabric pairing are perfect. The fit is fabulous. I have some rayon in-stash and have been dithering on what to do with it.

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    Replies
    1. SUCH A GOOD LUNCH SUGGESTION. And thank you! I sometimes don't know what to do with my rayon either. It suits this pattern so well because the gathers all lay very nicely, so it's a good one to have in my pattern arsenal I think!

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  4. I'm here! Love this dress and so nice to see your face again! Love how this feels vintage without being too-too, you know?

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    Replies
    1. HI! And yes me too! It's vaguely 40's ish...that's another reason why I left off the buttons, it suddenly made it feel too-too.

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  5. It's fabulous! So....is this fabric definitely ok to machine wash? I read somewhere it was dry clean only which has put me off. Nice work!

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    Replies
    1. Yes it's ok to wash! It might have a longer overall lifetime if you only dry cleaned, but that's not realistic for me at least so I wash it. I've had a dress made out of another C+S rayon for about a year of normal wear, and it looks pretty much the same, maybe a tiny bit softer or fuzzier looking, but other than that no difference. Definitely cold water/no drying, and the gentler the soap and cycle the better.

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    2. Thank you, that's really good to know! Yeah no way is dry cleaning happening over here either!

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  6. I still love blogs. I keep having to hunt up new ones though since so many folks post infrequently and I need my fix. Lunch, ack, I forgot to pack one. I guess I'm eating whatever they're serving in the Cafe. I love this dress on you. Professional, but not serious. I've been eyeballing Helios too.

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  7. Clearly you should eat cherry pie for lunch :)

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    Replies
    1. YESSSS googling cherry pie on the way home RIGHT NOW.

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  8. I'm still reading and I love this dress. I had the pattern, but have yet to cut into it. I think I may have to now. This is SO inspiring.

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  9. Glad your back because I am seriously addicted to blogs. When's the last time you had a tuna melt? I like to cook mind open faced on a pizza stone. And with fancy bread.
    The dress is very delightful.

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    Replies
    1. tuna melt on pizza stone?? you are blowing. my. mind.

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  10. Oh my goodness I love this dress so much! Like Natalie, above, I am a bit intimidated by all of the adjustments (Colette's Dahlia finally did me in and I tossed the whole thing). Can you be a little more specific about where you slashed to fix the neckline gape? Is it a straight slash, perpendicular to the grain?

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Hi! The slash is straight, but not perpendicular to the grain. I pinched and pinned it while wearing the muslin, and the fold that was pinched out ended up going straight across my body towards the armscye. But the grainine on the pattern piece follows the neckline edge, meaning it's at an angle when wearing it. So the slash is at an angle to it. I cut across to the stitching line at the armscye, since that was where I could create a hinge.

      But in general I just pinch out excess fabric on the muslin, mark where it's pinched, then do the adjustment in the same place on the pattern piece. Hope that helps!

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    2. Thanks! Very helpful!

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  11. Love the pattern you picked for the fabric, your adjustments turned out perfectly and it looks great on you ;o)

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  12. 1. Yes. 2. Yes, even the comments, which means 3. I'm now hungry for ALL OF THE THINGS.

    This dress is perfect! I just told Ruggy yesterday that Rayon is the king of fabrics (I assume Queen is taken by that haughty Silk).

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    Replies
    1. now your hunger has made me rehungry. it's like a hunger yawn.

      And I think King Rayon needs to be my next cat's name.

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  13. Still reading and glad to see your face! This dress looks amazing on you. And I agree with Oona. I'm so hungry now with 4 hours til lunch smh lol

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    Replies
    1. sounds like it's time for second breakfast!!

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  14. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  15. Hi, Devon, glad to see you back! yes still reading, yes I still read blogs, I would suggest aubergine and cheese lasagna with red and white sauce.
    such a lovely dress, I loved it. I might obey your shopping suggestion, too.
    love from Brazil *

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    Replies
    1. thank you!! and that lunch idea sounds delicious!! :]

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  16. I agree with Amanda (above) about still love reading blogs and disappointed when bloggers start tapering off - so keep blogging! We need our fix :-D And your dress is A.D.O.R.A.B.L.E!!!!!

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  17. Gorgeous! And now I'm dreaming of rayon.

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  18. Glad you're back. I was just doing a blog cleanup--where I unsubscribe blogs that aren't regular posters. You made the cut--this time!
    Your dress is really lovely and you look great in it.
    Leep sewing and keep blogging.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. phew! glad I made the cut. I will do my best to keep it up! :]

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  19. Blogs 4 Eva! This is smashing! Love it.

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  20. This dress is just adorable on you. Absolute perfection!

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  21. What a fantastic dress! Thank you for the fabric review too. I love quality rayon, but the good stuff can be hard to find. Nothing worse than flimsy rayon that wrinkles even when you look at it.

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  22. What a fantastic dress! Thank you for the fabric review too. I love quality rayon, but the good stuff can be hard to find. Nothing worse than flimsy rayon that wrinkles even when you look at it.

    ReplyDelete
  23. What a yummy dress! Welcome back, yes, there are people who still read blogs. My dad came up with a great lunch: a couple romaine leaves stacked, spread with a little cream cheese, lay a couple slices of smoked salmon, spread a little horse radish (creamed) and scatter capers on top. It's delish.

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  24. Dress turned out gorgeous, I love the pleat on the shoulders, such a nice detail. Melody Miller makes divine fabric and I want to buy all of it. Also, when in doubt about what to eat, the answer should always be Mexican food.

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  25. SO fantastic!! Nice work with that freehand-FBA too...sweeet.

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  26. Absolutely stunning. Loving the retro vibe. Also, I still read blogs and am happy to see you posting again!

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  27. Yes blogs are awesome. Heather Lou linked to this, that is how I knew you'd come back. Your kwik sew bomber is still the bomb!

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  28. You should make yourself a grilled cheese for lunch!
    Just found your blog and it's just the subject matter I want. I have always wanted to know more about pattern manipulation and fitting! Just subscribed to Seamwork Magazine and found your blog through that. Blogs are great...they teach, inspire and get me revved!

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  29. I so almost bought this pattern and now I am kicking myself! You did McCalls and C+S so proud! AND It is sheer magic that you were able to cut a dress out of under 2 yards worth of material- you are a sorceress!

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  30. Just found your blog and love it so I look forward to your future posts!

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  31. I'm SOOOO glad that you posted these pictures and the tips you have written!
    This is the second dress I've ever made and the first one from a 'proper' pattern. I couldn't get head round the sleeves, now that I've seen a picture I get it!
    Thanks for posting the neckline gaping and your solution ; I may be needing that. I'm making a toile first and currently ironing out the problems.
    I, like you, have found the hip a little too tight but I've managed to sort that.
    Fingers crossed!!
    Thank again for your blog and help :)
    Wendy x

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  32. You did a damned good job on this dress. I took one look at it was blown away because it looks so much better on you than on the pattern. Good call on the bodice modifications, you nailed it.

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