Monday, September 29, 2014

V is for...Clover

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

So this is actually the wearable muslin that I made before I made the Papercut Clover dress that I blogged the other day [a dress that I really, really like]. It's all finished, and it fits great, but to be honest I'm not so sure about it.

I think this is an instance where I liked the fabric but I chose the wrong application, and it just isn't quite right. I don't know. I like the pattern, and I like the fabric, but I don't like combo of the two. The yellow and the floral together with the black 'v'...it's just not speaking to me. All I see is that giant 'v.'

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

V for victory! Velocity! Viscosity! Visigoths!

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Ok so pattern notes...not much to say here. I am 33-27-38 and I made a straight XS. On this one I shortened the sleeves by 1.25", which was about as much as I could before the curve of the underarm got too severe. I like the scale better on my arms. With the sleeves as is, I felt like they were too long for me and made me look a little droopy/slouchy.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Both the yellow floral and the black insets are rayon. Even though it's a looser fit, the flowy rayon means that it doesn't look blocky or poofy when I wear it because it's constantly moving around. In fact I think it's a little more flattering in real like than it is in these pictures.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

To finish the neckline, the pattern has you leave a shoulder seam open, do the binding, then close the shoulder seam. So no binding in the round. Which is awesome, except that I totally didn't do it that way! I sewed the whole top together and then looked at the instructions. So I bound it in the round and was super lazy and just folded under the raw edge. And it's fine! Whoops!

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Despite my lack of enthusiasm for this rendition, I still really like this pattern, and I'm planning to do another one out of this navy polka dot poly chiffon I bought the other day. I was thinking of doing some shirring around the sleeves to make them a little poofy - which is a word I've now said twice in one post. I think that means it's time to wrap it up.

Papercut Patterns Clover Shirt

Have you ever had any pattern/fabric combo fails?

Friday, September 26, 2014

I'm going to Berlin [and possibly Prague]!

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My brother has been living and working in Berlin for the last five or so months. It's not every day that your brother lives halfway around the world, so I thought it's high time to visit! I'm going at the end of October and I'm sooo excited!!

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2011 versions of me and the bro

I was actually there in 2011, but just for a day as part of a larger tour. It felt like we were there for about 2.5 seconds so I've always wanted to go back.

I remember being really into taking pictures of this giant iPad ad behind the sign at one of the old east/west Berlin checkpoints. Poignant.

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But anyway, does anyone have any fabric shopping recommendations? Because you KNOW I'm bringing an extra suitcase. Does anyone live there? Any other general recommendations? If you have any bits of advice I'd love for you to leave a comment, or if you prefer you could also email me at devon[at]missmake[dot]com.

We are also going to try to go to Prague on one of the weekends I'm there, so any good info there would be much appreciated too!

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

cloverdress11

FALL! FALL! FALL!

That's what everyone is saying. Apparently fall is here in the northern hemisphere, at least according to the earth's position, and also Starbucks.

But it's still kinda hot here. Enter this dress. This dress lets me feel all autumnal on the inside, but keeps me abiding by summer on the outside.

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The pattern is the Papercut Patterns Clover dress, which is my new favorite one-evening-make. It comes together so fast, and with the small pieces and the 'V' shape on the front there are a lot of possibilities with color blocking and fun fabric choice.

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

AND the dress version doesn't have a waist seam so it's the same amount of work as the shirt length.

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The fabric is a light and drapey number that I actually got for free when someone made a giant fabric donation at Sew LA. It's some kind of polyester that's has a little woven plaid on it. I snagged it, forgot about it, then found it when I was trying to figure out what to make this out of. Score!

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I'm definitely planning to do more of the shirt length and play around with some sheer / fancy fabrics. I would have already except that I have nary a shred of sheer or fancy in my stash. How sad, right?

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

This belt buckle, by the way, is from ebay. If you'd like to lose an hour of your time and possibly some money, go search for "vintage brass belt buckle" on ebay, I dare ya.

Papercut Patterns Clover Dress

So now it's off to the pumpkin patch, or the cider mill, or the corn maze, or something. Happy fall!

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Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Kwik Sew 3491 Bomber Jacket Repeat

Kwik Sew 3491

We've been here before, haven't we? Kwik Sew...bomber jacket...floral lining. This all seems so familiar.

Oh yes, I already made almost this exact same jacket, KwikSew 3491, blogged here. How strange! Oh, the deja vu!

Kwik Sew 3491 Hooded Bomber Jacket

This time, though, it's a trade show sample for Robert Kaufman, so I don't get to keep it. Also, note the lack of beach and blonde hair [goodbye California.]

Kwik Sew 3491

I have to say, even though I already have almost the exact same jacket, I considered dropping everything and fleeing for the border just so I could keep this one too. [Luckily Hootie talked me out of it.] The style of this jacket is very much me.

[Also just FYI, this post is basically going to be a repeat of the last time I made this exact same thing, because I feel the exact same way. At least I'm consistent?]

Kwik Sew 3491

Firstly, I will gush about the outer fabric. It's Robert Kaufman's Chamonix Moleskin. I really, really love this fabric. It's somewhere between velvet and suede in texture, but it's 100% cotton. So yes, totally machine washable. It's so soft and squishy and texturey, and can you tell I really like it? My last rendition of this pattern was gray, this one is a deep navy.

Kwik Sew 3491

Now let's talk about that lining, shall we? It's Kaufman's London Calling lawn, the same fabric I used as a lining in one of my Chloe dresses, just a different colorway. I love the pop of lining inside the hood, and I especially love the lining on the inside. [I'm definitely using the word 'love' way too many times in this post, sorry guys, but it's true.] The pattern doesn't come with lining pieces, so I made my own. The jacket is faced on the inside all the way around the neckline, so I traced off the exterior pieces, subtracted the facing pieces from the tops, accounted for seam allowances, and voila! Lining pattern.

Kwik Sew 3491

I assembled the lining separately and then attached it to the free edge of the facing all the way around when the jacket was put together but before the hood was attached. The lining bottom, the ends of the sleeves and center of the hood lining are all turned under and hand stitched down.

Kwik Sew 3491

I used the same ribbing that I used on the first jacket. There are few things worse to me than almost-matching colors, and I couldn't find a ribbing that matched the navy exactly, so I went with a contrast.   Where do you buy ribbing? I find it to be difficult to source.

Kwik Sew 3491

The hood drawstring is some just some leather lace from Big Box Store. I think it ties in the brown of the ribbing and adds to the ruggedness of the jacket. And oh how I love a rugged jacket.

Since this was a custom job I timed myself very accurately - I use an app called Hours Tracker - and I was kind of surprised that this only took 7 hours of work time from start to finish, including cutting and hand sewing. Heck yeah! Although the paper pieces were already cut and the lining pieces already drafted, I still felt pretty good about that time. Part of it is that I've recently started using a rotary cutter and weights to cut out patterns, and it is SO. MUCH. FASTER.

Kwik Sew 3491

By contrast, I also made a Moneta dress with the tie collar and sleeves as part of the same job, and it took me 4 hours. 4! Hooray for knits, right?

Do you ever time yourself when you sew?

[P.S. - because I know you're wondering - that t-shirt was a Christmas present from my brother, and it's from an Etsy shop called Personal Baggage. It's a cat face in the shape of Ohio. I repeat, it's a cat face in the shape of Ohio.]

UPDATE: Sadly this KwikSew pattern is out of print now. But here are a few other similar-ish jacket patterns if you'd like to get your mitts on one!

Rigel Bomber by Papercut Patterns
Malu Coat by Schnittchen- make it short and add ribbing!
New Look 6226
Kwik Sew 3764
Burda 7047 [not super similar but does have a hood]

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Take a class with me! AKA Sewaholic Head to Toe

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Hey guys! Just wanted to let you know that there are some new classes posted on The Fabric Studio's website, so if you're in the Nashville area I'd love to see you in one of them.

I'll be teaching the adorable Sewaholic Belcarra Blouse class on Sept 17th and 24th from 6-9pm. This is a really good project if you've sewn before but have never made a garment [or even if you have!]

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I made the class sample out of a Kokka lawn, and I mean LOOK AT IT.

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I know there is still some of it left in the shop. And if you're not local you can get some from Nancy's etsy shop!

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My other new class is the Sewaholic Rae Skirt. This is a really great project for beginners - even if you've never really made anything before! [You do need to know how to generally thread your machine.]

The sample I made is out of the dreamy, much-pined-after Robert Kaufman chambray. It's so soft and luscious. This is View C, the longer one, which is a little longer than I usually like but I wanted to make it straight out of the envelope. Also Pinterest told me this morning that "'Audrey-Hepburn-length' skirts are being sighted on the streets of New York," so I think that means it's ok.

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Also that belt... I thought I liked it but looking at the pictures it's no bueno. Clearly I should have worn my red belt again.

I'm also teaching the much beloved Washi Dress pattern again, as well as a session of the Sewing 101 class. So visit The Fabric Studio's website to sign up, and let me know if you have any questions!

And just because, here's one more picture of that lawn:

belcarra_rae07

Friday, September 5, 2014

Polka Dot Moneta Dress

Colette Moneta Dress

This dress ain't nothin new in the blogosphere, it's another Colette Moneta and I made it a few months ago as part of the sewalong. But oh hey, yesterday was the first time I actually wore it in real life.

Colette Moneta Dress

I was originally a teensy bit turned off by the fabric - I ordered it online and it's a little stiff and unstretchy, and also printed off grain. It's the same fabric as my Moneta Peplum Top detailed in this post. But after wearing it for a day it's really not so bad.

No real pattern notes here, except things I've said before - I really think the Moneta is both super cute and very comfortable. Also I love the lower neckline in the back.

Colette Moneta Dress

I cut according to the grain for this one, and as a result the polka dots are all kind of slanty and falling off to one side. Which really doesn't matter because no one will notice, but if I were to do it again I would cut according to the polka dot rows. After all, appearances are more important than integrity. [Ok, maybe not in EVERY circumstance, but definitely when making polka dot dresses.]

Colette Moneta Dress

So to help me feel better about my polkas askew, I wore a belt. And this red belt is not just any old belt, let me tell you.

Colette Moneta Dress

Bear with me while I launch into a tale - when I was a kid, I showed Quarter Horses. Horses are not in my life any more, so when I have the opportunity to experience something horsey, I take full advantage.

Several years ago, there was a big convention called The Equine Affaire in Pomona, CA, which is just outside LA. I dragged my then-boyfriend to a full day of seminars, demonstrations and vendor shopping all geared towards the horse person. As we were in a giant building browsing through the many booths of the vendors, I came upon one filled with show clothes from a company I remembered  from my youth in Ohio. They had a rack of second hand clothes so I absently started flipping through.

One of the first things was a bright red ultrasuede belt. I flipped it over.

IT HAD MY NAME ON IT.

I do not exaggerate when I say that there was a rush of blood to my head and everything around me went dim. It was a belt that I had shown in when I was twelve years old, over two thousand miles away and more than a decade past. And it was just randomly right there in front of me, in my hand.

Colette Moneta Dress

I took the belt up to the vendor and told her I was going to buy it, because, um, it used to be mine? When I was a little kid? And I explained.

And she said, you don't have to buy it, you should just have it. Take it with you.

Colette Moneta Dress

So I took the belt home, and it's mine again. Whoever wore it in between, I'll never know. But I'm sure it witnessed as much of their blood, sweat and tears as it did mine.

Colette Moneta Dress

And just for some photographic evidence, here I am in 1998, age 12, wearing said belt [with a different buckle]. I'm sitting on Gilligan, a handsome bay gelding whose many talents including knowing how to take a bow [but only if you had a carrot]. His registered name was Island Fever. Get it?

Gordyville Feb 98

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Diamonds Mini Quilt

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Hope everyone had a good holiday weekend here in the states! Everywhere else, I hope you enjoyed your Mondays immensely!

I chose to partake in the leisurely activity of making a mini quilt over my holiday. It's been a long while since I've made a quilt, and it felt deliciously frivolous. [Not that quilting is frivolous, necessarily - this project just felt frivolous.] I had actually been wanting to try foundation paper piecing for a while now, and looked online at least an hour for a pattern that was not too involved but also cool.

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My search was fruitless until I was mindlessly swiping through my instagram feed and I saw a paper pieced gemstone block from one of my followees, the lovely legs_benedict. She had even so generously posted a link to the pattern she had come up with. I knew right then and there what the rest of my night was going to be.


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